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What is a “fixed-rope route”?
A fixed-rope route (“Klettersteig” or “via ferrata” [iron way]) is a climbing route with firmly installed safety points and artificial hold points. In difficult places routes are secured with wire cables, hooks, pegs and ladders. With the help of a fixed-rope set, which can be used with such safety points, even a rather moderate climber can cover difficult terrain without the necessary rock equipment. Nonetheless ropes are necessary. Each mountaineer looks after himself and secures himself when clipping to the fixed cable.
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A few tips on fixed rope routes
Fixed rope routes are not hiking trails. On steep mountain terrain risks can never be totally eliminated. These risks can be kept to a minimum through the use of proper equipment: helmet, mountaineering harness, Via Ferrata Sets and gloves. Never underestimate the difficulties. Beginners should start with less demanding fixed rope route. Get used to your equipment at home before trying it in the mountains the first time! Put on your equipment at the very start of the route. On fixed rope routes, as in all alpine climbing, the greatest factors of risk come from rock slides and weather. When a thunderstorm is rising, get away from the fixed rope route (or better, don’t even get onto them)! The steel cables of Via Ferrata routes are gigantic lighting rods. Cautious climbing often greatly reduces the danger of rock slides for those behind you. Fixed rope route should be fun. So don´t push yourself to the limit. As ways remember the possibility of turning back (for reasons of weather, or excessive difficulty). Test the reliability of safety cables (as far as possible). Maintain a safe distance from the climbers in front of you. Report damaged installations (such as loose anchoring or frayed cables) to the alpine guides or the tourist office at the base camp.
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Some tips to avoid misuse:
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It is best to practice the correct use and handling of the fixed-rope set in advance.
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For personal safety, make a visual inspection of the equipment before and after every use (knots, seams, adjustment systems [dirt], ropes, slings, strap ...).
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After a fall, the set should be reset, meaning the original lengths of the brake cable (which slides through the brake in a fall) should be readjusted. Warning: the brake cable is severely heated through friction, and could damage the surface of the rope.
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Exchange damaged parts!
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The fixed-rope set should be stored in a dark, dry place and only washed, if necessary, with water.
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The first example of misuse is the incorrect clipping of the set to the climbing harness. Therefore SALEWA only provides fixed-rope sets with sewn-in slings. In that way there is no ponderous linking with cow-hitch knots, since the sling is quite simply secured to the climbing belt with an anchor knot. So there are no longer any “unsafe places” where knots can come undone when handled incorrectly or on long tours. In addition, since 2002 only sets with sewn carabiners are provided; there are no more knots to undo and absolute safety is guaranteed.
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