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abrasion resistance
is determined using the Martindale Test: the test fabric is rubbed in a circular motion using a
standard wool fabric, recording how many cycles it takes before the threads of the test fabric are broken.
Air permeability value
Expressed in mm/sec , it is a measure of fabric’s WINDPROOFNESS; the very good values are < 5 mm/s. Fabrics with WATERPROOF membranes have an air permeability rate close to 0 mm/sec.
Brushing
The fabric passes through cylinders with small metal needles, which lift up the fi bers to make it fuzzy.
COOLMAX®
the special four-channel structure of Coolmax ® wicks sweat away from the skin towards the outer layer of the fabric.
Cordura®
Cordura® is high-performance, superdurable fabric resistant to abrasions, tears, and scuffs
denier
1 denier= the mass of a fi bre of 9.000 m length (given in grams).
DWR
it stands for DURABLE WATER REPELLENCY (Tefl on or fl uor-carbon treatments); it fades away with washings (usually 20/25 washings are guaranteed)
Elastan
synthetic polyurethane-based elastomer fiber. Also known as spandex, or by the commercial brand name: Lycra (Invista)
full dull
Synthetic fi bers and fi laments are obtained through the extrusion of a viscous liquid; to obtain a more dull effect, titanium dioxide TiO2 is added (TiO2 is used extensively for its UV resistant properties where it acts as a UV refl ector.)
Garment dyeing
dyeing after garment’s production (ex. many cotton styles are garment dyed)
jersey/interlock
two fairly common fabric knits
Meryl®
Meryl® is a registered Nylstar brand for a family of polyamide (nylon) microfibers that are exceptionally soft and lightweight.
microfiber
It is a SINTHETIC FILAMENT with yarn count<1 dtex = the mass of a fi bre of 10.000 m length (given in grams).
Peach finishing
The peach fi nishing is similar to brushing, but different rolls (with sand paper) are used
Piece dyeing
the fabric is dyed after weaving/knitting (90% of our fabrics are dyed in this way)
pilling resistance
it is expressed through a rate from 1 (severe pilling), through intermediate pilling (grades 2-3 and 3-4), to very low pilling (grade 5); the test is run with the Martindale Tester, andthe test specimen is compared to standard pictures after 2.000 cycles (rubbing the fabric against itself)
Polypropylene
Polypropylene (PP) has the lowest specific gravity among all the others synthetic fibers; it is naturally water repellent, stain resistant, antiodour, and wrinkle-free, and this last characteristic is very important because PP has a melting point of 160 degrees Celsius, so it CAN’T BE IRONED!
PTFE
polytetrafl uoroethylene (Tefl on is the DuPont trademark of its polytetrafl uoroethylene)
PU
polyurethane
RET
RET stands for evaporative resistance of a textile. Lower RET = better breathability.
rip-stop
It is specially designed to prevent rips or tears from continuing further. Both in warp and in weft direction, thicker (and stronger) yarns are inserted
Snagging resistance
The snagging test is run with a special kit with the MARTINDALE tester
spraytest
it expresses the water repellency of a fabric through a rate from 5 (no WATER ABSORPTION) to 1 (WET FABRIC!)- The result of the test is compared with standard pictures (QUALITATIVE TEST)
Supplex®
SUPPLEX® is the high-tech comfort nylon from INVISTA; its super-fi ne fi laments make the fabric softer than standard nylon and give a fi ne cotton hand. But while cotton tends to crease and shrink and colors fade, the SUPPLEX® fabrics are: fully breathable, able to hold their shape, faster drying than cotton and colour fast.
Tactel®
TACTEL® is a nylon fi ber and it is a registered trademark of INVISTA; TACTEL® characteristic are: strength, quick-drying(TACTEL® dries 8 times faster than cotton), softness and breathability.
UPF rate
Stands for Ultraviolet protection factor, in a range from 15-24 (good protection), through intermediate values (25 to 39 mean very good protection), to the excellent protection (40 to 50 and 50+). It is a permanent characteristic of the fabric
water column
It is the measurement of a pressure, expressed in mm H2O (ex. 20.000mm water column means that the laminated fabric let water pass through at the pressure of 20.000mm H2O
wicking
Wicking is a system for dispersing perspiration throughout the fabric which results in rapid evaporation.There are 3 approaches to creating the wicking function: (1) By fabric structure (ex. alpinExtreme underwear) ; (2) By yarn structure (ex. Coolmax) ; (3) By chemical reaction (ex. New fabric Dryt’on comfort lightweight); chemical wicking is not durable, but fades away with washings
WR
it stands for WATER REPELLENCY (Synthetic waxes or oils are coated on the fabric surface); it usually lasts for 5 washings
Yarn dyeing
the fabric is woven (or knitted) with already coloured yarns (for example, the madras are yarn dyed)
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